Kenya - Rwanda 2011

I have just returned from my second trip to the magic place of Maasai Mara in Kenya, and as always Africa brings out something new. I went as a guide for Safari Opplevelsesreiser in Norway and did not know what to expect of the Mara this time. We were staying at the lovely Porini Mara Camp in Ol Kinyei conservancy. Last time I visited Kenya with my wife in 2009, we spent our time Gamewatchers three other Porini camps around the country; Amboseli, Rhino and Lion. The Mara camp was like the others, just great. The staff was friendly, guides were good and the comfort above what one might expect considering it is a eco-friendly, tented camp.

Maasai dancing at night - Porini Mara Camp.

And the game… Of course the wildlife did their thing – as always in Africa. We had great encounters with the many species of ungulates, predators and birds found in the conservancy. We only spent one day in the Mara NR itself, as the migration was partly over. We saw rather few predators that particular day, but we had a surprise sighting of a pair of Black Rhino. The animals were keeping to the shade, so the pictures didn’t really turn out, but it was nice to this fascinating creature up close. Only about 35 of them still remain in the Mara, though very well protected. The situation is a lot worse in South Africa were as many as 330 Rhinos were killed by poachers within the first six months of 2011.

Cheetah sibling playfighting in Ol Kinyei conservancy.

Young Lion chasing after the pride at dawn in Ol Kinyei conservancy.

Lion cubs hiding in the bushes in Ol Kinyei conservancy

Wilderbeest crossing the savanna at dawn in Ol Kinyei conservancy.

Drama on the savanna. A Lapped-faced Vulture is chasing of the mother Thompson Gazelle before killing and eating her sick kid. Life and death in the Ol Kinyei conservancy.

Rainstorm at the Mara. A male Grant's Gazelle is waiting for it to end.

After four brilliant nights in Ol Kinyei we went back to spend one night in Nairobi, before heading to Rwanda on an early morning flight. What a brilliant place! Kigali, the capitol of the country with the thousand hills, was a pleasant city and I felt really safe all the time. We had a quick visit to the 1994 Tutsi genocide memorial before heading north. The visit was indeed powerful, and several questions were raised. The most important being; why didn’t anybody react? 1.000.000 people were killed between April and July 1994.

Virunga Vulcano NP in Rwanda - home to the Mountain Gorillas.

With this in mind we headed through the winding roads of Rwanda north to the Virunga Vulcanos NP – home of the Mountain Gorillas. Was I excited!! I could hardly sleep the first night just waiting for the porter to call us up at 05:30.  We came down to the national park borders and with our guide and rangers we entered the forest in search of the Gorillas. It didn’t take long before we came across the ranger patrol following “our” family group.

Kids come out to the NP edge to look at the Mountain Gorillas as they come out of the forest just briefly. The gorillas are one of the most important sources of income for these communities.

When we first stepped into the clearing I was struck by the non-existing reactions from the Gorillas. The 38 year old, 200 kilogram, Silverback didn’t even raise his eyebrow. But after a short siesta they started moving around and we spend the next hour enjoying their everyday actions close by. And did we get close? The silverback almost ran me over twice, he knock one fellow of the track. One of them even stole my lens cap. Eventually I got it back :-)

The silverback is demanding his respect (and slightly showing of to the visitors from the cold north).

Day to we came across a different group and yet again were we suddenly observing the daily routines of one of the worlds most endangered mammals. Only 780 survive in the wild today – and one of them touched me…

Eye to eye encounter with the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda.

Leaving the Gorillas after only two days was hard, but surely I must be back soon!

38 year old silverback Guhonda - chief of the Sabinyo group.