Galapagos recap

Just wanted to add this recap from my test trip to Galapagos in Nov-Dec 2012, on assignment for Naturfokus (now named WildPhoto Travel AS). If you would like to go on such a trip with me or my colleague check out www.wildphoto.com

Day 1

Arriving from Quito to Baltra in the Galapagos we were all excited to see what the expedition would bring. With 16 passengers, two zodiacs and a crew of 8, the boat that will be our home for the next 11 days seem spacious and nice. Already the same evening we would have our first landing with amazing wildlife encounters. Magnificent Frigatebirds were still displaying, while Blue-footed Boobies showed off along the path. Birds were all over the place and under the cactus huge Land Iguanas were feeding undisturbed by our presence.

Day 2

Next morning we landed at the Tower at dawn. On the beach we were met by several endemic birds of Galapagos included the rare Lava Gull, wandering among Sea Lions. Along the path in the mangroves Red-footed and Blue-footed Boobies raised their chicks while the Nazca Boobies defended their nests on the ground. Night-herons, Darwin’s Finches and Mockingbirds were numerous. Our first Marine Iguana was also spotted.

At noon we had a nice first try in the water with loads of colourful fish and an octopus for us to see. The water was clear and nice.

In the evening we landed on the other side of the Tower caldera and had a great time with Nazca Boobies and Red-Billed Tropicbirds until the sun set on the horizon.

Day 3

We woke up to a stunning sunset over Santiago Island and landed as the morning sun swept across the beach. “Blu-bies” and Brown Pelicans watched us from the nearby rocks while Ghost Crabs scattered across the beach. This is the spot to view Galapagos Fur Seals up close and we watched them play alongside Marine Iguanas, Sea Lion and a couple Galapagos Hawks.

Some of us went snorkelling at midday, while others played with the crabs on the beach.

The evening was spent at a stunning beach with beautiful mangroves in the dunes. This is the breeding ground of the Sea Turtle, but also several endemic birds. We stayed until the sun disappeared in the Pacific Ocean.

Day 4

In the morning we passed the northern spit of Isabela. From the boat we observed Killer Whales and Bryde’s Whales from as distance as Storm Petrels and Galapagos Shearwaters followed the vessel.

The following snorkel in crystal clear waters, accompanied by almost hundred Sea Turtles, Galapagos Penguin, Sea Lions, Fur Seal and even The amazing Ocean Sunfish.

The evening was spent at a most amazing place called Punta Espinosa with enormous number of Marine Iguana and also Sally Lightfoot Crabs. The occasional Mockingbird and Lava Lizard were added to the list.

Day 5

The Sea Turtles had already left the beach when we landed in the morning, but just behind these Isabela dunes we found our first Giant Tortoise. The walk also provided nice encounters with Land Iguana, Galapagos Hawk, Passerines, Brown Pelican and the endemic Flightless Cormorant.

The snorkel gave us some great encounters with huge Stingrays and more Sea Turtles in clear waters.

During the evening we entered a stunning mangrove landscape and observed several groups of Spotted, Golden and Mantled Eagle Rays, as well as Sea Turtles and sea birds from the zodiacs.

Day 6

Due to bad weather we had a slow start, but upon landing on the south end of Isabela we had a great encounter with 28 White-tip Reef sharks in a shallow lagoon. Great for photography!

The walk to the nearby Sierra Negra Volcano was cancelled due to very low clouds and a drizzle. Instead we visited the nearby wetlands and photographed the beautiful Flamingos.

The evening was spent on the beach with Sea Lions, Pelicans and wetland birds in low light.

Day 7

On Floreana we went to look for more Flamingos in the lagoon, but they had already left the wetland. Therefore we went to the nearby beach to work with the many Stingrays feeding in the shallows.

On the tiny island of Champion we saw the extremely rare Charles Mockingbird with no more than 150 birds remaining in the world, before we jumped into the ocean for a snorkel. There we had our first shark encounters, as well as a tremendous amount of colourful fish and Barracuda.

During the evening we had a nice zodiac cruise among the lava rocks and lush mangroves. The evening was finished with a cultural stop and a nice sunset Pelican.

Day 8

On Santa Cruz we went into the highland and walked among the prehistoric Giant Tortoises in beautiful Scalesia landscapes. After a visit to nearby crates we had a good lunch and a visit to the Darwin Foundation. The rest of the day was a free day in Puerto Ayora.

Day 9

Another highlight was the landing at Espanola with its stunningly colourful Marine Iguanas and Lava Lizards. The island is also the home of the Waved Albatross. The 20.000 pairs breed only on this island and provide good views both on land and in flight. The Espanola came close to check us out as we stopped by one of the many Booby nest along the path. Even the Tropicbirds gave us some good photo opportunities here. The snorkel of the day was quit exciting with several Eagle Ray and Galapagos Shark sightings, even up close. The evening was spent with Sea Lions on a stunning white sandy beach until the sun set.

Day 10

The morning started with a pleasant walk into the higher lava landscape of San Cristobal, were we saw our fourth and last species of Mockingbird.

The snorkel of the day was particularly exciting with a group of 40 Galapagos Sharks, several Spotted Eagle Rays and the larges Hammerhead shark I have ever seen.

The evening photography on the beach gave us some good light with Sea Lions and fishing seabirds along the shore.

Day 11

The last morning we entered a sandy islet just as the sun rose above the horizon, giving us good silhouettes of Sea Lions and nearby seabirds. The played with the many pups for a couple of hours before we had to pack up and head back for breakfast.

From there it went rather smoothly to the airport. It sure was a happy bunch of people that boarded the aircraft for Quito later that day. All smiles and plenty of images on the hard drive.

Svalbard photographic expedition

I just returned from an amazing expedition to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard.  I was traveling as a photo guide together with my good friend Ole Jørgen Liodden (www.naturfokus.com), and a fun group of photographers from Russia. On this ten day trip we only had a rough outline of our route. Instead of setting up a detailed plan we go with the changing conditions to provide the best photographic opportunities for our clients, and ourselves. On this expedition I believe we did quit well.

Perfect reflection in Adventsdalen. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/200 sec @ f/9, ISO 250

I started on my own with a couple of days in Longyearbyen. Spending the nights out around the settlement can really provide with some great photography. The nights are usually calm, and with a hint of midnight sun it came together on a few occasions. Several arctic birds and an Arctic Fox were captured in pleasant light.

Arctic turn on the run. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/8 sec @ f/11, ISO100

Boarding the small vessel M/S Origo on the 15^th of July we set up a rough outline of the trip and convinced the guests that we should go as fast as possible northwards. So we did, only stopping to check of a couple of Polar Bears on the way.

Northern Fulmar following the vessel on the way north. Nikon D4, 70-200mm, 1/1600 sec @ f/8, ISO 800

What surprised me on this trip was how far north we needed to go to find ice. At one point we even crossed 82° North. The next few days we moved slowly eastwards in the drifting ice. Constantly using binoculars to spot wildlife, Liodden, the crew and myself were scouting on shifts. You might think finding Polar Bears and other wildlife are easy in the Arctic but it does need some real effort.  Just to make a point I will sum up our trip at ones. We met some Germans that was in the ice and was lucky to find one Polar Bear. We found a total of 38 on our ten days! Of course this is not normal, but it shows that with knowledge and some effort you will have more success.

82 degrees north - top of the world. Nikon D800, 16mm fisheye, 1/400 sec @f/10, ISO 160

Polar Bear tracks on drifting sea ice. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/400 sec @ f/13, ISO 160

One of the many Polar Bears we met in the northern oceans. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/1600 sec @ f/8, ISO 320

It is a special feeling to go slowly through the drifting ice, as the summer mist makes visibility hard. The only sound except the engine is of ice floes getting crushed against the boat. Suddenly, as you feel like you are getting closer to the top of the world, a yellowish shape is moving across the horizon – the Polar Bear. The difference between bears in the ice, and on shore is huge. The Polar Bear belongs in the ice, with plenty of food to go around. Three of the bears we found in the ice actually had a seal kill. At one point three bears were hanging around, partly sharing a large seal carcass. An amazing sighting in “the middle of nowhere”.

Feeding Polar Bear at night. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/250 sec @ f/7,1 ISO 320

Summer swim in the Arctic. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/2000 sec @ f/7,1, ISO 800

Two large male bears sharing a seal kill. Nikon D4, 500mm and 1,4 ext, 1/1600 sec @ f/6,3, ISO 800

With the ice being far north we passed over Nordaustlandet and continued down the stunning Austfonna glacier. This is one of the largest glacier fronts in the world measuring over 200km from north to south. We were of course hoping to get Polar Bears on blue ice along this cap, but instead we were blessed with four Humpback Whales bubble net feeding and eventually breaching close to our vessel. Even the chef got the photos to prove it!

Waterfalls from Austfonna Glacier. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/2000 sec @ f/11, ISO 800

Feeding Humpback Whales. Nikon D800, 70-200mm, 1/160 sec @ f/8, ISO 320

Humpback Whales east of Svalbard. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/400 sec @ f/7,1, ISO 320

Hearing rumors of 10-12 bears in front of a glacier a bit further south we anchored for the night and had a well-deserved rest for guest, guides and crew. The next morning we headed into this “secret bay”.  The large glacier in the background made it hard to spot any abnormal shapes, but suddenly the first Polar Bear showed up, then the next and the next. From the vessel we spotted at least 12-15 bears and decided to enter the Zodiacs.

Zodiac cruise in a "secret bay". Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/ 3200 sec @ f/10, ISO 800

During the next 24 hours we spent 10 in Zodiacs on three different cruises, not raising anchor before 3 o’clock in the morning. A total of 19 bears were counted in this bay, all of them mothers with cubs and younger animals. Some were really inquisitive and gave us some great photography.

Mum and her two youngsters. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/1000 sec @ f/11, ISO 1000

Getting close to the Polar Bear. Nikon D4, 24-70mm, 1/1600 sec @ f/7,1, ISO 800

Resting Polar Bear at night. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/1000 sec @ f/9, ISO 800

The next morning (around midday) we were woken up by the anchor as we had arrived at one of the major Walrus haulouts in the Hinlopen strait. The chef served another great lunch and we entered the Zodiacs again. This was our first proper landing in several days and the guests were eager to get ashore. After securing the beach, making sure no Polar Bears were hiding nearby, we moved slowly towards the pile of Walruses on the other side of the beach. Sitting down on the beach seemed very effective, as the animals were very curious of these two-legged creatures. We spent almost five hours photographing Walruses and nearby scenery. A great landing!

Getting to know my neighbor on the beach. Nikon D4, 70-200mm, 1/50 sec @ f/8, ISO 320, and flash

Still room for one more. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/160 sec @ f/11, ISO 250

With a promising forecast we started our journey northwards to get the best light at Alkefjellet. As we moved north the sea settled and the sun started peaking through. Brünnich’s Guillemots became more and more abundant and added to the spectacular scenery along the coast. Arriving at Alkefjellet, pretty much everyone was startled by the pure abundance of birds and the constant noise. Cameras were going warm, and we continued shooting from the vessel and from Zodiacs until early morning.

Brünnich's Guillemots by night. Nikon D4, 14-24mm, 1/1250 sec @ f/7,1, ISO 400

Alkefjellet cathedral. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/1000 sec @ f/8, ISO 250

As the vessel moved north in the early morning, I was talking to the first officer on the bridge about whaling and his childhood dream to become a whaler. Today he was enjoying the “whale hunt” with photographers and was glad that he did not go into the shady business of hunting the marine giants. As we were chatting along I suddenly spotted two large spouts further north. As we were getting closer it turned out to be two large Fin Whales. One of the largest animals on earth. The next couple of hours we enjoyed their presence, getting lots of nice images. I believe all went to bed, pretty content, at 8 in the morning, as the boat continued north and west into the fjords.

Two Fin Whales in Hinlopen. Nikon D4, 70-200mm, 1/1250 sec @ f/7,1, ISO 640

Later that evening we woke up just in time for dinner, and realized we anchored up near the always stunning Monaco Glacier. After a solid meal we headed out on a Zodiac cruise among the ice. Getting closer to the glacier we heard the rumbling sound of the calving glacier, but always at a safe distance. The waves formed by the falling ice was the only thing that moved the water in the fjord this evening. The guests were happy to stretch their legs and to use those tripods. There were some brilliant landscape photographers among the Russians. Leaving Liefdefjorden we were followed by no less then 30 Belugas. My first encounter with this white whale among the ice.

Monaco Glacier in evening light. Nikon D800, 14-24mm, 1/640 sec @ f/11, ISO 160

Midnight reflection, Liefdefjorden. Nikon D800, 24-70mm, 1/800 sec @ f/7,1, ISO 250, Polarizer

The following evening we visited another of the famous Svalbard glacier, Lilliehöökbreen. A Bearded Seal gave us some nice images, as well as some amazingly blue ice.

Bearded Seal on ice floe. Nikon D800, 24-70mm, 1/250 sec @ f/5,6, ISO 400

Blue ice. Nikon D800, 24-70mm, 1/320 sec @ f/6,3, ISO 500

The last day we visited Alkehornet to finish of with some landscapes and Svalbard Reindeer. We also heard rumors about Arctic Fox cubs. It didn’t take long before we saw two cubs playing, but when we arrived they were gone. On the way down to the Zodiacs we walked right into them and had a marvelous time watching and photographing these little critters. Lunch was late again, but everyone was happy.

Arctic Fox cub, taking life easy. Nikon D4, 500mm, 1/1250 sec @ f/5,6, ISO 800

This was a perfect trip!

I will be guiding a similar trip in 2013, but all spots have been reserved. (http://www.naturfokus.com/2011/12/23/svalbard-1-2013/) Contact Naturfokus for enquiries on future photographic expeditions to Svalbard. 

Photographic equipment on this expedition;

Camera bodies
Nikon D4
Nikon D800
Nikon D3s

Lenses
500mm f/4
70-200mm f/2,8
24-70mm f/2,8
14-24mm f/2,8
16mm fisheye f/2,8
24mm tilt/shift f/3,5
105mm f/2,8 macro
TC14 extender
TC20 extender

Other
SB 900 flash
R1C1 macro flashes
Nikon EDG binoculars
Sacthler tripod
Macbook Pro
And tons of little things...

South Africa 2012

As always I was excited to go back to Africa and this time I headed of to South Africa, a first for me. This time I really felt like I came prepared, equipped with a brand new Nikon D4, a D800 and a D3s as backup – and of course my wife to carry the D800 (more on that later…)

We arrived safely in Jo’burg and were met by a friendly driver who took us on a morning drive north into the mountainous area called Entabeni. Pretty exhausted we arrived at the lodge just in time for lunch. After unpacking, we were ready to go.

Lioness in morning glory. Nikon D4 and 500mm f/4.

The wildlife around Entabeni was great, and the first evening we encountered the local lions resting just opposite our lodge. We spent two nights in this area, just to get the feel of Africa (though temperatures plunging to zero in the night felt more like home), and we had some great encounters.

Lion king in the cold morning mist. Nikon D4 and 500mm f/4.

After breakfast the second morning we were picked up by Jay at Africa Photographic Travel (APT). He took of his own time and drove us all the way east to Timbavati, bordering Kruger NP. A four hours drive turning into six due to roadwork gave us plenty of time to look at the stunning scenery and to talk. I hope we will do something together in the near future.

Upon arrival in Timbavati we met with our local host Greg Du Toit, a brilliant South African Wildlife Photographer, had a quick lunch and got onto the vehicle. And what a vehicle it was. APT has, together with Nikon South Africa, developed a specialized Landrover with photographic seats and bracket arms. I must admit it felt a bit awkward the first evening, but once you get the hang of it everything just came together. I probably missed a couple of shots due to the construction, but in the end I think I got a couple because of it as well.

Spotted Hyena from ground point of view. Nikon D4 and 500mm f/4.

We spent three nights in the beautiful Simbavati  River Lodge and had great wildlife encounters, but one day in particular is worth mentioning. This morning the local Hippos just going crazy outside our tent woke us up. As we were enjoying a cup of coffee on the deck we could see these two males fighting in the river. Water was dropping so the territorial males were disputing over the recourses, and consequently the females. The good thing about going on a specialized photographic trip is that when you see a picture you work on it. So instead of chasing after the Big Five we got in the vehicle and drove the 100 meters down to the river. The next two hours were just amazing!

Greg and I got out of the car and onto the ground for a better angle as the two bulls battled in the water. The fight moved around for a while and at one point I was laying no more then a couple of meters from the water as the two males came charging up. I was well aware of the reputation these animals have, but I kept on shooting until I heard Greg calling my name from the other side, and something about “get the frog into the vehicle” or something like that… As I was way to close for my 500mm I jumped in at grabbed a shorter lens for more action. It was fascinating horrible to watch at the same time. The strongest male almost gutted the other one, and on the beach he was virtually chewing on him. They got back into the river and drifted a bit further down. Suddenly we saw this one male standing tall in the middle of the river, at the deep end! We never saw the injured male again and we believe he was actually drowned by his opponent right there.

Two Hippo males fighting over water, females and the right to live. Nikon D4 and 500mm f/4.

As the Hippos came charging out of the water it was time to get of the ground. Nikon D4 and 500mm f/4.

Fighting to dead. Nikon D3s and 70-200mm f/2,8.

Still shaking from the action we moved on and finished of the morning with a beautiful drinking Leopard and a large group of Elephants moving down the river. A lot to talk about over breakfast!

Elephants on a morning stroll. Nikon D3s and 70-200mm f/2,8.

Leopard drinking. Nikon D4 and 500mm f/4.

The same evening we got out ready for more, and we got what we were hoping for. Good encounters with local wildlife like antelopes, Lion, and then another Leopard. This time a young individual in a tree. The sun had already set and I tried some shots just to see what I could make of it. The D4 images seemed OK considering the conditions, but I didn’t bother working on it. My wife on the other hand was happily shooting with her D800 and a 200-400mm lens. Some people would consider ISO 5000 and a shutter speed of 1/5 sec to be just silly on this camera setup, but were we surprised when we saw the result! D800 might lack the speed and noise levels of a typical wildlife DSLR but the dynamics of those files were just mind-blowing. Did I mention my wife was happy!

Leopard shot by my wife Irene using Nikon D800 and a 200-400mm f/4 lens @ ISO5000, f/4 and 1/5sec!

To end it of we had a nice chameleon, Common Genet and Verreaux’s Eagle Owl. Just before getting back to camp we saw our third Leopard of the day and this one was moving along the river. We managed to follow it, thanks to excellent driving by Chris, and eventually we ended up IN CAMP! The last thing we saw of this animal was as it hid underneath our neighbours’ tent. I guess it is needless to mention we had a strange feeling going back to our own tent that night…

A great thanks to the people at the lodges, Greg for being a great guy and Jay Maan at APT for providing a great itinerary.

After spending the week in the bush we travelled down to the southern tip of Africa for a very pleasant stay in Cape Town. Of course we went for some sharks in False Bay, tasted some wine in the stunning Winelands and “climbed” Table Mountain (love those Dassies…).

Great White Shark catching a Cape Fur Seal in False Bay. Nikon D4 and 70-200mm f/2,8.

Cape Cormorants in False Bay. Nikon D4 and 70-200mm f/2,8.

Rock Hyraxs' or Dassies, on Table Mountain. Nikon D4 and 70-200mm f/2,8.

To sum it up it was an amazing trip and it was all put together by Safari Opplevelsesreiser. 

I really hope to do it again, perhaps with clients.

Strelitzia flower. Nikon D800 and 28-300mm lens.